WALLACEBURG ARTS: Taking in the sounds of Nashville
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Joni and I are just back from a trip down south. We started our trip with a 22-hour drive straight through to our friend’s home in Florida. David and Fran were wonderful hosts, I got in a little golf, Joni was able to scratch her shopping itch and we enjoyed the time despite the unseasonably cool temperatures.
We left Florida in the early morning hours and headed to Nashville for a few days before continuing home. As luck would have it, Nashville saw the most snow it has seen in years the day we arrived – a whole three to four inches. This pretty much shut down the city as their snow removal readiness is less than par. Most museums, galleries and a good many stores were closed due to the snow and –9 C temperatures.
Joni and I were determined to make the best of it and on Tuesday morning we grabbed a cab from our hotel down to the core of the city.
We wandered in the cold for a bit but the highlight, by a massive margin, was visiting two of the coolest bars we have ever wandered into. First, we visited the storied Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge. Here we found a seat with Tony and Jacquie, two people from Cleveland who were happily stranded as their flight was detoured and grounded due to the storm. In chatting with them we heard that the table we sat at is where a young Willie Nelson sat and wrote songs. He got his first songwriting gig after singing there as well. Legend has it that June Carter penned songs at the very same table. When Tootsie’s first opened it was a hangout for young singer/songwriters in country music.
The musicians who sang there were wonderful. They mostly covered country classics and they did a fabulous job. Fun fact: the musicians in Nashville play for tips.
After braving the elements to wander about we returned to Broadway and went into Layla’s Honky Tonk, which is directly beside Tootsie’s. On stage was a band we could hear from the street and as soon as we stepped in and saw the five-man band with lead singer Cliff Waddell in his Stetson, Joni declared, “Wow. Now that’s a country band!”
It was a combination of the look and feel of the band. Cliff has a deep rich voice that reminds you of a Garth Brooks or Tim Mcgraw. He sings with the passion and conviction of an old soul storyteller. His band did covers and took requests, but they also did original songs.
As Joni and I settled in I noticed that the bass player was closely watching the lead guitarist, Mark Whitehead. I suggested to Joni that the bassist was probably new to the band as Mark was showing the frets and the two were clearly, and subtly communicating as the band played. It was something to watch.
I had the opportunity, during a break, to chat with the bassist, Michael Ponder. Michael was filling in for the regular bassist, Hoot Gibson, who was snowed in at home and Michael got the call that morning to join the band for a four-hour gig staring at 2 p.m. As a tuba player I tend to zero in on the bass line and Michael did a fabulous job. He had fills, runs, the walking bass all exquisitely performed with this band to the point where anyone listening wouldn’t know that he was a hired gun for the day. Michael regularly performs with a Lynyrd Skynyrd cover band and is a recording artist himself.
That was something we had read about but to witness it was nothing short of awe inspiring. Nashville is Mecca for the world’s best country musicians and it was evident in Cliff’s band. A quick resume of the band members:
The drummer is Ronnie McDowell Jr. just voted the Rope International Musician of the Year in Nashville. Joni and I had the privilege of chatting with him as well and, as is so often the case, he was humble and gracious. Ronnie plays with his dad, a country legend, and is also a talented singer and songwriter who noted that the award rarely goes to a drummer.
Mark Whitehead has a beautiful touch on lead guitar, plays riffs flawlessly, and is truly an artist. I was told he can play any instrument and I am not surprised by that. He deftly guided a bass player that was new to the band that day through every chart and his role in the ensemble was never diminished by the effort. He is a true professional and gifted musician.
A real treat was listening to the steel guitar of Vic Lawson. This man was very unassuming on stage. You could be forgiven for being unable to describe him as he simply put his head down and played. But, oh, what a sound he made. I have never heard steel guitar live before and it was a treat watching Vic draw the mournful fills that complete this band’s country sound out of his instrument.
The most stunning moment of a sublime concert was when I requested a song for Joni. I was naïve in my understanding of the style of music the band was playing, they tend to cover older country standards when not playing their own charts. I requested Tim McGraw’s “Humble and Kind” because I know Joni loves it and I first heard it with her. I heard from our new friend Brent from Arkansas that the band did not know the chart, had never played it but they wanted to try it for us.
I recorded the performance on my phone and have asked Cliff if I can post it on YouTube because what we witnessed was astounding! (If he is okay with it you will find it on my YouTube channel – Dan White Wallaceburg – Cliff Waddell.)
It is a clear indication of the level of talent the band has. There was a hesitant start as the band sorted out playing a song they all knew but had never performed. Mark, Michael and Ronnie figured out the rhythm together and then they were off. Cliff was superb as always with the lyrics. The aforementioned three were wonderful – perhaps not perfect, but dang close, which was another great experience.
After the concert Cliff thanked me for challenging him. Many would have been perturbed, but Cliff was thrilled to have the experience.
And then there was Vic! His steel guitar beautifully embellished everything that was laid down under his tasteful fills and melodies. What an honour to witness the talent of these five gifted musicians.
This was the greatest display of talent I think have ever witnessed. With no preparation, no music notation, no rehearsal, only skill, experience and an abiding trust in one another, they performed a song to a full house and it was awesome.
If you ever have the occasion to get to Nashville, look up Cliff Waddell and the Twang Gang. They play every Tuesday and Wednesday from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m. at Layla’s.
In my next column – more about Honky Tonk, Nashville and even what a Honky Tonk Hero is!
Until then, check out this YouTube video:
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