Six O’Clock Solution: Scalloped potatoes are simple but succulent
Rebekah Peppler's recipe is easy to make, may be assembled hours in advance and will enhance a wide range of meals.
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You can dress up the simple potato in this French recipe, known as gratin dauphinois. It’s easy to make, may be assembled hours in advance, and will enhance a meal that can range from modest leftovers, such as cold meat from yesterday’s roast, to the best steak or fish fillets.
Rebekah Peppler, an American food writer who has converted to Parisian dining, includes this succulent dish in her latest cookbook, À Table: Recipes for Cooking and Eating the French Way (Chronicle/Raincoast, $42.99). In the Dauphiné region of southeastern France, she found the dish does not include cheese, so it’s all right to skip it.
Peppler’s 125 recipes are easy to follow. Like all fans of French cuisine, she likes the freshest ingredients, and doesn’t stint on heavy cream or butter. Readers should wait to use her tips related to dinner parties until COVID-19 is on the wane, but her “French pantry” tips are always useful and show her experience. For example: “Brined things” such as pickles, capers and olives liven up a meal; butter should be the best variety, and unsalted; pepper can be varied, from basic black to piment d’Espelette; and stock up on four vinegars — white, red wine, apple cider and sherry.
French Scalloped Potatoes
Serves 6
2 pounds (1 kg) waxy potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced (with fresh new potatoes, you can leave the peel on)
1 1/2 cups (375 mL) whole milk
1/2 cup (125 mL) whipping cream
1 garlic clove, smashed
1 bay leaf
1 1/2 teaspoons (7 mL) fine sea salt
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg, or a pinch dried
1/2 tablespoon (7 mL) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons (45 mL) grated Gruyère cheese (optional)
In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine potatoes, milk, cream, garlic, bay leaf, salt and nutmeg. Bring to a simmer, lower heat, and simmer, stirring gently, until potatoes start to soften but are not cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Discard garlic and bay leaf.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 C). Butter a 12-inch (30 cm) shallow gratin dish.
Arrange potatoes in an even layer. Sprinkle with cheese. (At this point, dish may wait, covered, at room temperature for several hours.)
Bake uncovered until bubbling hot and browned on top, 50 to 60 minutes. Serve warm.
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