Anthony Gismondi: Tracking the evolution of B.C. wine through the lens of the WineAlign National Wine Awards
Opinion: Anthony Gismondi explores the evolution of the B.C. wine industry, along with sharing his five favourite wines of the week.
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As you read this, I will be in Penticton overseeing the 2023 WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada.
Now widely considered the benchmark annual snapshot of the state of Canadian wine, I thought it might be helpful to look back at some earlier results to track the evolution of B.C. wine as it heads into this year’s competition nearly a decade later (disclaimer: I’m a co-chairman of the nationals with my Ontario counterpart David Lawrason).
In 2014, the Canadian Winery of the Year went to Peller Estates Niagara, which just edged the 2013 winner, Mission Hill Family Estate. Both wineries grabbed one platinum medal and four gold medals. As impressive as it was then, this year’s top performers will likely grab two platinum medals and three gold to be in the running, as determined by their top five results.
Looking at the top 20 B.C. wines judged in 2014, much of the landscape has changed since the Nk’Mip 2013 Qwam Qwmt Riesling Icewine, $60, topped the list. Despite its historical significance, the demand for icewine in Canada has given way to far more exciting varietal wines and blends.
The Summerhill Pyramid Winery 2013 Organic Riesling $20 proved that being organic doesn’t mean having to be ordinary. Since then, Riesling has been on the upswing across B.C., led by Tantalus, Synchromesh, Orofino, CedarCreek, Peak Cellars and Martin’s Lane, with prices more than doubled.
Mission Hill Family Estate 2011 Perpetua $35 and Quails Gate 2012 Stewart Family Reserve Chardonnay $35 were judge favourites. Since then, Blue Mountain, O’Rourke Family Estate, CedarCreek, Meyer, Tanatlus, Little Farm, Unsworth, Checkmate, and Spearhead have joined a crowded field at much higher prices.
The Orofino 2013 Gamay Celentano Vineyard $23 led the go-Gamay-go charge. Despite several quality wines in the market, Gamay remains a less than exciting choice for consumers, as evidenced by Gamay entries waning at the 2023 nationals.
CedarCreek 2012 Platinum Pinot Noir Block 2, Lake Breeze 2011 Seven Poplars Pinot Noir, Nk’Mip 2012 Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir and Tightrope 2013 Pinot Noir struck gold in 2013 among 116 entries.
You could easily add a dozen names today, such as Unsworth, Meyer, O’Rourke Family Estate Cellars, Martin’s Lane, Howling Bluff, Spearhead, 50th Parallel, Quails’ Gate, and Blue Grouse. In 2023, the nationals attracted 150 Pinot Noirs to enter.
Thornhaven Estates 2012 Syrah $25 and Laughing Stock Vineyards 2012 Syrah $36 grabbed platinum awards in 2013.
The Syrah category has grown exponentially since then. Star producers include Road 13, Le Vieux Pin, Hester Creek, Hillside, Orofino, Clos du Soleil, Winemaker’s Cut, Quails’ Gate The Boswell, Phantom Creek, Maverick, Lake Breeze and more. Top wines are now pushing $75.
Sparkling wine has blown its cork. Gray Monk 2010 Odyssey Traditional Brut $30 was the standard in 2014. While it remains a quality bubble, especially for the price today, the field is crowded with Township 7, Black Hills, Garnet Valley Ranch, Tantalus, Fitzpatrick Fitz, Noble Ridge, Bella, Unsworth, Blue Mountain and more.
The evolution of the grape mix has been the story of Red Blends. In 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon was the dominant grape. As time progressed, Merlot took over that role. More recently, we have seen a significant uptick in Cabernet Franc in the blend, and lately, Cabernet Sauvignon, thanks to global warming and better viticulture, is making a big comeback.
Finally, perhaps the most significant change is the categories that were fledgling or didn’t exist in 2014 that have become a big deal.
Today, Cabernet Franc is on fire; Gruner Veltliner, Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier are all full-fledged classes. It’s a new year, and we can’t wait for the latest snapshot this July. Stay tuned for the results.
Weekend wine picks
Conviviale Pinot Grigio 2021, Veneto, Italy
$19.49 I 88/100
UPC: 8010471002412
Conviviale Pinot Grigio is made by the folks at Araldica, a third-generation, family operated co-operative based in Piedmont, Italy. Still, the grapes grow in the Veneto region of northern Italy.
The winemaking is standard with an aging period of three-to-six months on fine lees in stainless.
Convivale is part of the Boutinout collection, so you can expect another level of care and intensity. Look for ripe orchard fruits on the nose with a crisp, dry palate of spicy melon, pears and nuts with a citrus finish.
Keep the seafood simple, like steamed shellfish, and you have the perfect match. The price is right.
Harper’s Trail Thadd Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021, Kamloops
$25.99 I 87/100
UPC: 626990181767
This clocks in at an excellent 12.4 per cent alcohol, leaving it light on its feet.
The nose mixes earth and brown spices with a streak of herbal, savoury notes.
On the palate, the acidity dominates, feeding tart cherry and earthy mushrooms.
This needs food to sing, although it probably should be drunk sooner rather than later, given its overall structure. This stony mineral affair is just a bit low on fruit this year. I suggest a spicy tuna roll to mash-up the flavours.
Château la Besage Grande Cuvée 2018, Bergerac, Sud-Ouest, France
$19.99 I 89/100
UPC: 3700898210594
An actual Bordeaux blend from Bordeaux, Besage pitches a fragrant soft silky texture and an equally pleasant nose of fully ripe black cherry and black plum, streaked with savoury tobacco and grilled meats. All that and more continue onto the palate that remains reserved and balanced through the finish.
Impressively on the mark and a perfect mid-week dinner wine you can count on now through 2026.
Roasted beef, pork roast or steak would be ideal. The grape mix from Bergerac’s clay-limestone soils is generally 70/20/10 Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Good value here.
LaStella Fortissimo 2020, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley
$35.99 I 92/100
UPC: 808755017126
Tasted three times this month, Fortissimo is as impressive as it is charming.
Large format puncheons and Hungarian/Slavonian oak (only 6.6. per cent are new) keep the oak influence to a dull roar while allowing what looks like a terrific vintage room to expand in the bottle.
Plums, spiced fruitcake and dusty, savoury South Okanagan notes perfectly punctuate its fresh black and red fruit lined with desert scrub and tobacco, adding complexity throughout its long finish.
Think richer foods, none better than braised veal shank, osso bucco, or Tuscan roast lamb with a rosemary crust.
The blend is 63 per cent Merlot, 18 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 13 per cent Cabernet Franc and six per cent Sangiovese, all grown on Black Sage Bench and in the Osoyoos Lake District. Drink or hold this bargain.
Argiano Solengo 2020, Montalcino, Siena, Tuscany
$105.99 I 93/100
UPC: 8022931508177
The legendary Giacomo Tachis wanted to make a super-Tuscan in Montalcino, so, eventually, Bordeaux varieties were planted at Argiano at 280-to-310 metres, over marl and ancient clay, with a high proportion of limestone.
Decades down the road, the pandemic vintage, a warm year in Tuscany, came to a finish favouring super-Tuscan blends like Solengo that mixes 50 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 per cent Petit Verdot, 20 per cent Merlot and five per cent Sangiovese.
Always a mouthful, this dense red specializes in floral notes, blueberries, black fruits, balsamic streaks and spicy oak with fine-grained tannins that finish seamlessly and very long.
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